When it comes to designing menswear, a few names shine in India's fashion map. And designer Kunal Rawal is one of them. Celebrated for his innovative approach to men's occasion wear, his designs have garnered attention of numerous celebrities including Ranbir Kapoor, who walked the ramp for Rawal at Indian Couture Week in 2023, Shahid Kapoor, who wore his wedding wear designed by Rawal, Varun Dhawan, and Arjun Kapoor, who is also a childhood friend of Rawal. His design philosophy challenges traditional norms in Indian men's occasion wear. With innovative silhouettes, Rawal blends contemporary silhouettes with Indian embellishments to create unique pieces that appeal to modern sensibilities. He also introduces gender-neutral elements into his collection with structured silhouettes, texture and bold colours – his latest occasionwear features the hues of bold pink, rusk and eclectic blues. An eye-for-detail designer, Rawal's designs feature a fusion of knotting techniques, pleating and metalic work, which make his garments niche in Indian contemporary luxury. ETV Bharat recently met with the designer during his Hyderabad visit at his store in Banjara Hills. Excerpts from the interview:
Kunal, your designs have revolutionised Indian menswear. What inspired you to enter the fashion industry?
Fashion has always been a significant part of my life. I was fascinated by how clothing could be a medium of self-expression. My journey started with an appreciation for traditional Indian craftsmanship, and I wanted to modernise it while keeping its authenticity intact. When I was studying at London School of Fashion I did everything, but my true calling was menswear. I wanted to dress myself and could not find a language that represented me in occasionwear. I designed and realised that there were many men resonating with the same question.
How has the menswear evolved over the years?
When I started off nobody was doing menswear, except one or two designers. So, that's what the menswear landscape was. People didn't understand that women's wear designers were doing menswear. Today people understand that menswear is a specialist's job. Designing for men is very different from designing for women. The common practice was women's wear fabrics, embroideries, motifs come on to a sherwani and a bandi. That's what was accepted as menswear in occasion. Today there is creation and we specifically create clothes for men and for me a big part of the inspiration is young India. I believe young India is more progressive than the strongest country's youth because we think progressive.
Your brand is known for blending tradition with contemporary styles. How do you strike that balance?
I believe fashion is about evolution. Indian menswear has a rich heritage, and my goal is to make it more relevant for today's generation. By infusing modern silhouettes, unconventional cuts, and versatile styling, I ensure that traditional wear appeals to a global audience while maintaining its essence. The fun of doing that for me is that the India I have grown up in is a very global India. I have been blessed to be a part of such an exciting journey of the India story. I believe that Indian designers are so blessed because we have so much heritage behind us. We have got so much to take from. There is so much story and craftsmanship which has been passed on to us from generations. Compared to designers from different parts of the world, we definitely have an upper edge and we are seeing that in the global arena now. Indian silhouettes have been in the global space for very long.
You’ve dressed some of the biggest celebrities. How does it feel to see your designs on such influential personalities?
It's an incredible feeling! Dressing celebrities like Ranbir Kapoor, Arjun Kapoor, and Shahid Kapoor has helped showcase my designs to a wider audience. Celebrities are trend drivers and they take the work a notch higher. They have unique personalities and fashion perception. Each time a celebrity you would with will bring out a different side of you as a designer. They are amazing muse and they make the clothes look beautiful. However, my biggest achievement is making Indian men feel confident and stylish in ethnic wear, regardless of their background.
Lately, you have been experimenting with bold colours such as hot pink, rust and eclactic blue. Is it moving away from your quintessential beige and white?
I am in my color phase. This season, we have introduced some bolder tones. I feel menswear is so exciting right now. It's evolving so fast. Men are finally having fun with their clothes. To me, clothes and fashion are emotion. More than the looks, it's connected to a feeling. And I am lucky that after so long, our clientele understands that luxury is about how it makes you feel.
What plays an inspiration for you while designing clothes?
Honestly, there is no hard and fast formula to this. You have days where we are scratching our heads all day. You have days where things just flow. Things just come to you. It's just one of those days. There is no specific on how to create. It's again headspace. When I am happy I create. So whenever I am emotional, something exciting always comes out. Whether it's a positive emotion or a negative emotion, both the emotions are as potent as the other. But whenever I am emotional I end up creating more. It could be with something as small as a conversation we are having. It could be somebody I have met that inspired me. It could be a city or its architecture. The best ideas come randomly.
What are the key elements that define a Kunal Rawal outfit?
Attention to detail, functionality, and personalization. My designs are created to be multi-functional, allowing men to mix and match pieces for different occasions. I also focus on intricate embroidery and layering techniques that add depth to the garments while ensuring comfort.
How do you see the future of Indian menswear?
Future is exciting! Men's fashion is no longer restricted to basics; there’s a growing demand for experimental and sophisticated designs. I see more men embracing prints, textures, and structured silhouettes, and I'm excited to be a part of this transformation.
We are now moving toward sustainable fashion. How do you ensure that in your garment?
I prefer garments that can be worn multiple times. I think one garment is meant to give you at least 10 looks. You are supposed to wear it out for years and years. If you are not doing that you are not doing it right. So occasion wear is not about a discounted price. Once a customer buys our clothes, we repurpose it for free so that can be worn again on a different occasion. We repurpose the embroidery free of cost for them like a sherwani we repurpose into a bandhgala or into a bundy or a deconstructed jacket. My job is to make you wear it 200 times. That's what is sustainability for me.
Many designers across the globe have started integrating AI in their work. Are you looking at it in near future?
It's an evolution. We are excited to see what it brings to the fashion world. AI is already impacting fashion but I hope it doesn't make everyone think the same as it's already happening a long. I see the lack of dependence on original thought compared to the dependence on fine tuning something. If AI helps cover some leakages, then it's good but if becomes materialistic than we are in danger. The power of creative goes beyond centuries.
Any advice for men looking to elevate their style?
Invest in timeless pieces that reflect your personality. Play with layering, experiment with textures, and most importantly, wear your confidence. Fashion is an extension of who you are, so don’t be afraid to express yourself!
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